Indicator Stalk

Found an indicator stalk on eBay and decided to give it a try, fitted it to the steering column and wired in to the loom. 

Seems to sit well behind the paddles and doesn't get in the way. Far neater than any other solution I've seen when paddles are fitted.

The indicator stalk works really well on the road, far better than the push buttons.

Savage Switches - Poor Quality

When I started by build I opted to fit Savage switches, they looked good and I thought that they were high quality.

Now that I have had them for a while, I am tired of them falling apart and the aluminium discs falling out. Each time I have to re glue the discs back in place or re assemble. Not the type of experience I was expecting of asupposedly premium switch.

I fitted a couple of these switches on my centre tunnel for my indicators, they are a real pain as they don't disengage that easily. Not good when driving.

I would definitely not recommend these as they are a waste of money. I have also spoken to other kit car owners who have had a similar poor experience. I'll try to find a better alternative.

Hayabusa High Output Stator & Regulator

Ordered a high output stator rebuild and rectifier / regulator from Rick's Motorsport Electrics in the US, also ordered a cable repair kit to replace the melted connector on my loom. This solution should provide a high enough output to correctly support the engine in the car application with twin pumps etc. I went with this option as the alternator setup was far more expensive.

The Rectifier-Regulator is designed with Mosfet Technology which makes the regulator run a lot cooler, it also has a higher output than standard and runs up to 40 amps.

I also sent my stator core back for rebuild and rewind. The stator has now been upgraded to provide an output of 500 watts compared to the standard 400 watts. The coil has been fully re wired and all connectors replaced.

I have fitted the regulator and also replaced the damaged connectors in the loom, will install the stator when I change the oil next and remove the dry sump tank.

Pipercross PX600 Airbox #5

Left the nose cone over night to allow the tiger seal to set and refitted the nose cone and engine cover.

Pipercross PX600 Airbox #4

Cut out the panel from aluminium sheet, cut a hole in the centre then fitted a plastic duct to the back of the plate. The largest duct that I could get that would fit above gone radiator was 80 mm high with a 76mm outlet. 

I then used an adaptor to move the diameter up go 100mm for the duct. Fixed in place with hose clamps. Fitted a strip of foam tape on the bottom edge to seal against the top of the radiator. Will fix the plate in to the top of the nose cone and tiger seal in place later.

Fitted a plate underneath the radiator to block off the airflow and to try to force more air through the radiator and down the intake ducting. There should be a reasonable amount of cold air entering the engine and may get a ram air effect at higher speeds. Will monitor intake air temps from the sensor fitted inside of the airbox.